On the gentle ridges and through the shady valleys of the Șureanu Mountains, we can still discover places untouched by modern civilization, where the whispers of the ancestors can still be heard in the breeze, where people still live in perfect harmony with nature. One such place is Fundătura Ponorului, a remote hamlet of almost surreal beauty. Nicknamed the “Palm of God”, it was discovered relatively recently by travelers and has quickly become a popular destination, maybe even hurting its authentic and peaceful atmosphere.
Clouds of dust rise behind the car as we’re slowly making our way up a dreadful road through the mountains. Tiny rocks are often projected underneath while the side bushes are screeching on the doors. The sun’s not up yet and we’re lost on a seemingly never ending dirt road towards the hidden villages of Șureanu Mountains. There’s no other way to reach them besides a few hiking trails that take wanderers through forests and over the ridges. Today though, we are trying to get there just in time for the first rays of sun and witness one of the most captivating moments imaginable. We find ourselves in the middle of nowhere, far from modern civilization, surrounded by a magical light that promises a gorgeous spring day.
Leaving the dusty and tired car behind, I’m already greeted by the first signs of the Via Transilvanica trail, crossing these mountains on ancient routes once known only by local shepherds. While dreaming of one day starting this epic adventure and walking its whole distance, for now we settle with small bites of the road, a few kilometers here and there, along its unforgettable path. This adventure will take us from Fundătura Ponorului to Fundătura Ponorici, idyllic hamlets tucked away along two lush valleys and hidden away from the world. Rightfully nicknamed the „Palm of God”, the remote village of Fundătura Ponorului was only recently discovered by travelers and quickly became a popular destination, maybe at the cost of hurting its authentic and peaceful atmosphere.
A lazy creek flows along a lush long valley, passing through pastures and courtyards, before finally disappearing in the depths of the Earth, under a tall rock. On the surrounding hills, the first light breaks the fog and reveals lonely shelters, some of them long deserted and surrounded by haystacks, orchards and some cattle. Proudly called manors by the locals, these seasonal homes are usually inhabited from early spring to late autumn by old people from faraway villages. Slowly, the valley comes to life and distant sounds echo over the rolling hills. Walking along these idyllic pathways, we could encounter villagers on horseback, following an oxen cart or leading a flock of sheep or cows.
Having witnessed the magic of the sunrise over this blessed valley, we take on the Via Transilvanica trail over the hills towards the north. We come across lonely cottages and small traditional farms that seem frozen in time, grasping to an era that has long disappeared elsewhere. We could spend an entire day and not see a human soul along these pathways, only hearing distant whispers and the tinkling of cowbells. It takes an hour or so to reach the twin valley of Fundătura Ponorici, where we leave the trail and follow the peaceful river towards the northwest. There are fewer cottages here, most of them seemingly long reclaimed by nature.
Roaming horses and grazing herds of sheep usually inhabit this valley, as the river follows its meandering way and suddenly disappears under a tall cliff. It breaks out again on the other side of the ridge, tumbling down from a cave and creating the enchanting waterfalls of Cioclovina. We could reach them by following unmarked paths over the hill or embarking on another adventure along the valley from the northern village of Boșorod. For now though, it is time to take the long way back into civilization, still dreaming about the haven we briefly encountered. The sublime charm of these places is hard to put into words and life here is certainly tough, but so pure and beautiful, worthy of the last descendants of the Dacians.
1 Day Photo Tour to Fundătura Ponorului
If you wish to experience the idyllic beauty of the authentic Romanian countryside, join me for a day trip to the secluded village of Fundătura Ponorului and its surrounding area!
